Of Gold Leaf and Golden Hours: Sabri Brothers

Gold Leaf cigarettes

The two hours before the sun sets are the ‘golden hours’. The time of day when the air is fat with a warm light that makes everything seem if it was trapped in ancient amber. Even in winter this light has warmth and it is not surprising it is one of the busiest most social times of day in the bazaar.

It’s hard to imagine it now, but there was a time when my daily habit was to wander through the cluttered galiyan of whatever bazaar I found myself in with my only companions a pack of Gold Leaf and my trusty Olympus.  I had no purpose other than to bask in the light and find the places where it bumped abruptly into shadow. Or made the glass top of a snuff box shimmer.

Some of my favourite bazaars were Gawalmandi (Rawalpindi), Qissa Khawani (Peshawar), Multan’s old city and of course, around Data Sahib’s tomb in Lahore.  Though I tried hard, it was almost impossible to take a bad picture in those places especially when the light was low honey. And sometimes the god of photography simply insisted on a scene being captured. 

Such is this photo.  I just happened to hove out of one lane and into a slight open space to spy this phoolfarosh (flower seller) and his luxurious supply of blooms. Being positioned near the tomb of Data Sahib, the patron saint of Lahore, his stall was prepared for a brisk evening trade as worshippers and well wishers stopped by to pick up garlands to lay on the great sufi’s tomb.

I snapped and this is what came out.  It has been a favourite for years. I was listening to a qawwali by the inimitable Sabri Brothers, Main Aan Jago Daata Peer Di about Data Sahib and my memory snapped immediately to this photo.

I’ll stop here.

You can enjoy both the photo and Brothers Sabri tonight.

            Track Listing:

            01 Bhardo Jhoole Meri Ya Mohammad

02 Mera Koi Nahin Tere Siwa

03 Aayen Hein Tere Dar Pe To Kuch Leke Jainege

04 Teri Nazar Karam Ka Sahara Mile

05 Andhere Mein Dil Ke Charagh Mohabbat

06 Main Aan Jago Daata Per Di

Listen here.

            Track Listing:

            (Disc two)

            01 Milta Hai Kya Namaz Mein

02 Taaj Dar-e-Haram Nighaan-e-Karam

03 Sar La Makaan Se Talab Hui

04 Yaa Saahibul Jamal Yaa Sayeedul Bashar

05 Mohabbat Karne Walo Hum Mohabbat

06 Man Kunt Maula

07 Mere Ghaus Piya Sarkar

08 Kithe Mehar Ali Kithe Teri Sana

Listen here.

Invincible: The Sabri Brothers

Qawwali Group by Jamil Afridi

As promised, here are four qawwalis from the Sabri Brothers.  

The record is from 1975 and reveals some of the marketing strategems of the suits at EMI Karachi. Obviously a younger, more hip audience was wanted.  The cover art is a rather modern rendering of what is probably meant to be a Pakistani village. And each of the qawwalis is introduced by some rather incongruous Montavani-esque strings and lute plucking that would not be out of place in a hotel lobby or airplane lounge.  But thankfully this segues neatly into the classic traditional style of qawwali the Sabri Brothers never strayed too far from their entire lives.

And so to take you out on this Saturday night, ladies and gentlemen, Haji Ghulam Farid Sabri and Haji Maqbool Ahmad Sabri.

My favourite is number 3:  Mere Data Karam ho Baraye Karam as I spent many hours around the mazar of Data Sahib in Lahore, to whom this qawwali is directed, when I was a student.

Apologies for the hiss. Obviously a well worn record…which in a way is its own recommendation!

            Track Listing:

           

       01 Mohammad Ki Chatai Ne Bhi Kya Taqdeer Pai Hai

02 Chalo Madine Gham Ke Maro

03 Mere Data Karam ho Baraye Karam

04 Ghaus Ka Martaba Dekh Kar Mangna

Listen here.