I once worked with guy named Ladisi. He was a Kenyan water
engineer and we worked together for some months in the Rwandan refugee camps in
northwestern Tanzania. Ladisi was the quiet sort. Smart but not vocal, in most
of our meetings he would sit hunch shouldered taking everything in but rarely
commenting on proceedings. Working long
days and long weeks is the norm in refugee camps. But every few weeks a huge
party would be organised on a Saturday night and aid workers from all the
surrounding villages would dance and drink the African night away.
Preparing for these parties was like mounting an expedition
down the Zambezi. Crates of Primus beer
would be laid up for days before. The cooks would set up a huge open air nyama choma spit on which they would grill
mounds of sausages, chops and steaks.
The lines outside the shower blocks (looking over into the gorgeous
green mountains of Rwanda) moved slowly as everyone scrubbed hard to get the
week’s dirt from every crevice and orifice.
The music, always Congolese soukous, began early. No one took to the dance floor before 1000pm when the speakers really began to
crack. Old cassette tapes would be stuffed into and snapped out of a couple
decks by a driver or guard, to create an atmosphere as hot and jumping as any club in Nairobi or Dar es Salaam.
It was on these nights that Ladisi came into his own. Around 11 when most of the non-African guests
had driven home, the dance floor belonged entirely to the Africans. Ladisi, cool as the Kilimanjaro snow, Primus
in hand would begin, ever so slightly, to move his hips.
He moved closer to the center of the hall and obviously oblivious to all
others would find his groove. Soukous, especially, since the early 80s
is music played at lightening speed. Guitars lay down the basic structure of
the piece early. It is repeated over and over again. Note for note,
perfect. The only thing that changes is
the intensity and pace of the riff which by midway through the piece fills any
dance hall with the most intoxicating looping stuttering music ever invented. It is elegiac and almost symphonic in its
aural presence.
Musical mercury mixed with cold beer. The perfect recipe for
distressing.
Kanda Bongo Man |
And there is Ladisi hardly moving his hips, just twitching, it seems to us amazed foreigners, but man have you seen anyone dance like
this?! So sexy, so fluid, so inviting and somehow in perfect sync with the
lickety split trilling of the Zaire soukous wizards such as Kanda Bongo Man,
Madilu System and Loketo. We gather round in admiration and awe. The guitars are relentless, the drums
insistent and the singing gloriously harmonious in the way only Africans can
sing. We gawk at Ladisi, who is now very
aware of what’s going on. And loving it.
He smiles, takes a sip of his Primus and shimmies for us a while longer
before slithering off into the darker corners of the hall. We simply laugh in
love and whistle and clap.
Diblo |
If you are not familiar with Congolese music you may find it
a slightly hard nut to crack. But don’t
give up quickly because once that nut is cracked and you find the groove…believe
me, you just won’t turn back.
Track
Listing:
01 Monie
02 Liza
03 Wallow
04 Bedy
05 Lela Lela
06 Yesu Christu
07 Mosali
08 Kadhi
09 Naloti
4 comments:
Yes!
let's have a beer or two...
one day... :)
Thank you for playing Soukous! Apurva from Pune, India.
you have a wonderful music blog!!!
I-)
Anonymous,Thanks!
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